Dual City

Havana’s transition back to a city that supports an active tourism industry has been responsible for partially recreating Havana as a ‘dual city,’ “a large metropolitan center characterized by disparities in wealth and status” (Online Glossary for Urban Social Geography).

In 1989, Cuba had “one of the most egalitarian economies and societies in Latin America” (Colantonia, Potter, 118). This, indeed, had been one of the Socialist government’s primary goals. This has begun to change, however, during the Special Period with the tourist industry and its demands. A large reason for this is that Cuba utilizes two monetary systems, the Cuban Peso and the CUC (Cuban Convertible Peso). Jobs in the tourist industry pay in CUCs or sometimes under the table in US dollars, whereas government posts pay in Cuban pesos, which are worth significantly less. This had led to an income disparity that didn’t exist during the Revolutionary period. While tourism does provide jobs to a large number of Habaneros (32, 962 in 2002 + uncounted jobs in the informal sector), it by no means can provide jobs to all Habaneros. Those lucky (or smart) enough to find work in the tourist sector have a huge financial advantage over those in traditional posts–even posts like medicine and biotechnology, which are highly prioritized by the Socialist government.

On left: Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC). On right: Cuban Peso. (Source: Cuba Tourism) 1 CUC is worth 25 Cuban pesos.

Another reason that tourism has had a dual city effect on Havana is that investments into tourism in Havana are focused in several specific locations — Habana Vieja, Vedado, and other waterfront neighborhoods and resorts like Varadero. Colantonio and Potter cite 5 tourism poles in Havana –Marina Hemingway, Montebarreto, Vedado, Old Havana, and the Eastern Beaches — all of which border either the Malecon or the waterfront (57). Thus, “coastal areas are de facto benefiting from new economic opportunities generated by tourism in the private sector, while other municipalities are left behind” (133). Contrary to the message of the Revolution, neighborhoods in Havana with less cultural, religious, etc. significance are overlooked, and have become progressively underdeveloped.

On top: Renovated facades in Habana Vieja, a highly touristic neighborhood. On bottom: a crumbling house in Centro Habana.

The dual city effect in Havana is not as noticeable as in other Latin American countries because of the history of socialism and the fact that Habaneros with money do not have many more options than Habaneros with no money. Housing in Havana is still highly regulated, as is travel. So even Habaneros who work in tourism and make more money have little ability to buy houses or go on expensive vacations.

While the ‘dual city’ effect of tourism in Havana is concerning, perhaps a more concerning, and very much related, phenomenon in the Special Period has been the re-emergence of slums.